Botswana: Nature’s Perfect Paradise

ARTICLE BY ARMAND GROBLER | RHULANI PHOTO AND FILM

Botswana, natures perfect paradise. The first light of dawn spilled over the Okavango like molten gold, igniting the reeds and channels in a blaze of colour. Mist curled up from the delta’s mirror-like waters, whispering secrets from the night before. Pad marks left by lions  as they launched the hunt and deep wallows dug out by Africa’s notorious cape buffalo as it bathed in the shallows during early evening. This is not a place you simply visit. This is a realm you enter with reverence, your heartbeat slowing to match its ancient, eternal rhythm.

Botswana is not a country for the faint of hearted, nor for the hurried soul. It is a land of elemental truths and vast silences, where time is measured in shadows and the slow movements of its wild inhabitants. For the photographer, it is a cathedral of the wild, a place where every sunrise carries the possibility of an exciting spectacle, where every rustle in the bush could be the prelude to a hunt, or the quiet communion between mother and cub.

Here, in the pristine wilderness of Botswana’s magical theatre, where the teeming waterways of the Okavango flow into the oceanic Kalahari sands and the ancient Tuli landscapes tower above the great Limpopo, nature does not perform … it reveals. And for those with the patience to watch and the eye to capture, Botswana becomes something more than a destination, it becomes a calling.

Over the last several years I have been fortunate to wander across these magical places, to live in them and become a part of its story. Throughout my photographic safaris and publications, I have come to understand the mystery of Botswana’s allure, but also to humbly acknowledge that the soul of this great continent – which I believe is Botswana – can never be captured and showcased to an audience, it can only be truly appreciated and understood, when experienced.

I fell in love with the country, with its bountiful wilderness, its wonderful people and its spectacular wildlife. Throughout this blog I hope to bring somewhat of a connection between you and this great land that I have come to love so deeply, however it is important to note that despite my best efforts, or even the best efforts of the most captivating writer or creative photographer, it will never suffice to the actual experience that is: Botswana.

So, what makes Botswana unique, so attractive to the traveller and even more so, to the photographer? Is it the tranquillity, wildlife, cost or the authenticity of the experience?  These questions plagued me for years before I finally set out to work on my latest publication, which led me into the inner depths of its most wild places.

Determined to uncover the truth about this wildlife haven and why it’s often referred to as natures perfect paradise, I created a production titled, ‘Eden: Soul of Africa’. Eden is a luxury coffee table book that captures the essence of Botswana’s three major tourist locations: the Okavango Delta, Greater Kalahari and Tuli, where I spent 3 years accumulating an intimate understanding of each place’s individual and intricate beauty. Over time it became clear why Botswana is such a popular safari destination, as it combines a unique set of elements that ensures sustainability, quality and most importantly – a sacred connection.

Like Kenya, Tanzania, Zambia and Zimbabwe, Botswana’s tourism industry predominantly trades in USD$, making it an expensive travel destination. Through conversations with people from across the globe, the cost is usually the first thing that deters people to this magnificent place, which is why I want to confront this issue first. To understand the cost, one has to understand the vision.

Botswana has a high value, low volume focus on tourism, with a low density infrastructure and vehicle impact in its National Parks. In fact, I have driven in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve for 2 days without seeing another vehicle! Places such as Moremi and Chobe are more popular with self-drive tourists, mobile safaris and fixed camps, however it is rare to share a sighting with more than a handful of vehicles. This is in contrast to most other countries.

In regions such as South Africa’s Kruger National Park, Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park or Kenya’s Maasai Mara National Park, it’s the norm to share a rare or beautiful sighting with over 50 other vehicles (even more during migration periods!). There is little to no restriction at sightings, and mounting pressure is it put on local wildlife in order to get into a better position as close to the animal as possible. A video recently surfaced of well over 50 vehicles surrounding a lion suffocating a buffalo. Eventually the vehicles parked within single meters from the animal, encircling it completely and chasing it off its kill as it panickily hurried to get away. Similar images have shown a string of cars as far as the eye can see watching a cheetah on the hunt. These practices are not only negatively impacting the wildlife, but also on guest experience, often leaving guests irritated and bewildered.

Botswana’s high value – low volume perspective allows guests to really break away from the hustle of modern living and indulge in isolated, pure wilderness. However, usually with low density vehicles, the animals tend to be more shy around the cars – is that the case in Botswana? No. Despite a relatively low vehicle density (particularly in the summer months) the wildlife seem very habituated to vehicles, and I have on several occasions had leopard and lion use my vehicle to stalk prey. It is very common for animals such as lion, leopard, cheetah and wild dog to even rest in the shade cast by the vehicle, particularly in areas devoid of large trees or shady vegetation. On several occasion while having sundowners I have had leopard, wild dog and lion appear, solemnly walk past my vehicle and take a drink or continue with their stroll, completely undisturbed by my presence. Botswana is a country where a large amount of people living in villages or towns share the space with wildlife and it’s not infrequent to see an elephant walk across a soccer field or lions stroll past the grocery store.

Botswana is one of our planets most iconic safari destinations, offering some of the continent’s most pristine wilderness areas, from the lush waterways of the Okavango Delta to the vast open spaces of the Kalahari. There are three main ways to explore this photographic paradise: luxury lodges or fixed tented camps, fully serviced mobile safaris, or self-drive camping adventures. Each option offers a distinct experience for different types of travellers, from the luxury seeker to the rugged, adventurous camper.

  1. Self-Drive Camping in Botswana: A Wild and Raw Adventure

During my most recent photographic project, I was primarily based in the Okavango Delta, using a self-drive setup that allowed complete immersion into the wild. For photographers and nature lovers who thrive on solitude and raw, untamed experiences, Botswana’s camping scene is simply magical. Most of the campsites are few and far between, creating a low-density experience, often you won’t even see another camper nearby.

Camps are unfenced, meaning wildlife is free to roam and elephants, hyenas, and big cats may wander through your camp at night. It’s not unusual to fall asleep to the sound of lions roaring close by.

Facilities are basic with toilets and showers. Running water is not always available and often you are expected to bring your own bucket shower. Electricity is virtually non-existent and self-sufficiency is key, you’ll need to bring your own water, food, fuel and power sources. Bush skills are essential, and understanding animal behaviour is a must, particularly in areas with high density predator populations where you may wake up with lions laying around your campsite.

Navigating Botswana’s remote regions can be extremely challenging, which is why we highly recommend downloading the Tracks4Africa HD Maps. This offline navigation tool provides accurate, updated details on roads, water crossings, and campsite locations, an absolute essential for overland travel here. Proper planning is critical. Research the specific campsites you plan to visit, and make sure you understand what amenities (if any) are available.

  1. Luxury Lodges and Fixed Tented Camps: Premium Safari Living

For those looking to experience Botswana in comfort, luxury lodges and tented camps offer world-class hospitality set in the heart of Africa’s most scenic wilderness areas. Expect to pay around USD $1,000 per person per night (sharing), but in return, you’ll receive an all-inclusive, five-star experience.

These lodges offer air-conditioned suites, fine dining, premium beverages, and highly trained safari guides who lead professionally guided game drives, mokoro (dugout canoe) excursions, and walking safaris. Charter flights, spa services, and even photographic hides are often included. While undeniably more expensive, luxury lodges deliver a seamless, stress-free safari, ideal for first-time visitors or travellers looking to indulge in comfort and style while still getting close to nature.

Tented camps are often more affordable than lodges, but still provide a rich and immersive experience. Personally, I prefer the sound of canvas flapping in the wind over the hum of an air conditioner. There’s something deeply grounding about sleeping under tented canvas in the middle of the African bush, separated from nature by the thinnest of materials.

  1. Mobile Safaris: The Perfect Balance of Comfort and Authenticity

For me – and many of our guests – the mobile safari experience is the ultimate way to explore Botswana. At Rhulani Safaris, we specialize in small group, photographic – mobile tented safaris that offer the comfort of a private, comfortable camp with the authenticity of staying in the wild. We host a maximum of six guests per private booking to ensure an intimate, personalized experience.

The mobile camps are set up in remote wilderness areas reserved for these exclusive experiences, far from busy public campsites. Each guest tent is spacious, en-suite, and includes a bucket shower and eco-friendly pit toilet. You’ll sleep on proper steel-frame beds with real mattresses and fresh linen while being serenaded by the evening sounds of Africa’s orchestra.

Daily life on a mobile safari includes three chef-prepared meals, sundowner drinks around the fire, and game drives conducted by expert local guides. Of course on our photographic tours there will be an expert photographer to host you, with the inclusion of daily, educational workshops. Another great benefit of mobile camps is the opportunity to explore different area’s with the same tour – and we often utilise this opportunity to cover two iconic regions in one safari. While there’s no WiFi, the disconnection is part of the magic. Guests often describe our safaris as life-changing, and it’s easy to see why, this is immersive, soul-stirring Africa at its finest.

Final Thoughts: Choosing the Right Safari in Botswana

Botswana is a land of magic and wonder. The breathtaking scenery is only enhanced by its spectacular wildlife, weaving a spell on travellers that will leave you yearning for more. It is a sacred place … a spiritual experience that cannot be appreciated through the written word or artistic photographic. You have to be there. You have to feel the soft earth beneath your feet, inhale the sweet fragrance of nature’s bliss, feel the warmth of the Kalahari sun kiss your face, and fall asleep under a starry sky listening to a myriad of insects, howling hyena or roaring lion.

To know Botswana is to love the land, and if you appreciate nature as an entirety, then you too will become addicted to the deep, passionate emotion that its nature evokes within your soul. I have spent years sojourning through this incredible country, yet I can never have enough. It is like a sweet poison – as soon as you have tasted its delicacy, you realise you can never have enough. I have seen almost all there is of its wild places, but I will always come back searching for more.

Whether you’re a wildlife photographer chasing golden light across the Okavango, or a first-time visitor looking for a curated luxury safari, Botswana delivers an experience like no other. The alluring magic of Botswana beckons. The question isn’t whether to go, it’s how to go.

I hope this article has revealed to you a glimpse of Botswana’s magic, evoking a curiosity to understand and experience these very words I have written. Should you have any questions on traveling to Botswana, including any necessary equipment, navigational tools, vehicles, safari locations or anything similar, do not hesitate to reach out to bookings@rhulanisafaris.com – we will always assist where we can.